A: That depends on the battery and the number of Spekular sections used. Every section draws 14.5W in full brightness. A 98WH battery powering a single section will last 98/14.5=6.5 hours. A 192WH battery powering 4 sections will last 192/(14.5*4)=3.3 hours
A: You can stack up to eight sections with one power cable. If you are running on battery, each section uses about 1.1 Amps so make sure your battery can handle the draw
A: The light on full power can get up to 55 degrees centigrade. It will not burn you, but it’s not pleasent to touch for a long time.
A: Some printers do not put out enough black to make it 100% opaque. You can stack two transparencies together.
A: The lens’s focal length totally depends on your creative vision, the size of the object you want to light and the distance from that subject. Just like when “taking” a picture. The longer the focal length, the tighter the projection, so you can splash a wall with a wide lens or paint a heart on a chest with a tele. My only recommendation is to use a fast (i.e. wide aperture) lens.
A: The Blaster has a standard Canon-EF mount which has almost any adapter imaginable. eBay is a pretty good bet.
A: Yes you can! Though a crop factor lens will only pick up a cropped part from the center of the slide. This is similar to the way EF-S and DX lenses only expose the center of a full frame sensor.
A: Of course. If you are projecting on a wall, remember that light coming from other sources, competes with the light coming from the Blaster. so grid your non-blaster light for best effect.
A: There is a small metallic button on the back of the adapter. It pushes a pin to secure the lens in place. To remove the adapter, push the button and rotate the adapter clockwise. It should do the trick. You can see the button in this picture. The adapter should come off easily, so don’t fight it. Some lenses require the aperture lever to be oriented in a certain position. If you can’t rotate the adapter, try moving the aperture lever to the other side.
A: Most likely those lines are a projection of the plastic pattern on the front diffusion cover of your strobe. You can either pull the strobe back a bit or cover it with some diffusion material.
A: There are several methods, each with their own merits:
- The slide holder is positioned so you can use the focus guide numbers if the lens has them.
- For tight projections (i.e. tele/zoom focal lengths) you can use a strong flash light.
- For covering walls or otherwise big surfaces you can use the modeling light feature of the strobe if it has one.
- There is another good, relatively sure-fire way to focus the lens you are using with the Light Blaster. First, setup the Light Blaster. Then put the lens you plan to use with the LB on your camera. Then focus the lens placed directly above the Light Blaster. Turn the camera off and take the pre-focused lens and put it on the Light Blaster.
- Lastly, trial and error, it usually takes no more than 3-4 tries to get it right.
A: believe it or not, the best source for slides is probably your parents, they will be delighted when you take interest in the slides they took during their honey moon. Other places may be art classes, flea markets and film-era photographer friends. Of course, you can always buy our Slides Creative Kit.
A: Yes, we’ve seen those too. Aside from the fact that copying is morally wrong, those kits are of lower quality, offer no support system, and I can’t really call them by any other name than patent infringing thieves.
A: Of course we do, you can read more about it on our shipping page.